Day 134 | Yulara campground: civilisation makes its appearance
81 km | zzOz total: 6,911 km
Sometimes it’s a good idea to leave the best until last, and I’m not talking of the last 2 km of the dirt road, almost the sandiest of the whole GCR. It’s called Kata Tjuta.
I even contemplated getting off and walking the bike through the sandpit but the moment passed and I can say I have managed to ride everything, except an occasional cross road shuffle, muffled muttering and grunting notwithstanding.
Even before you burst out into a totally different world, the 12km from my campsite bought out my last 4 camels, strangely bounding across the road, frisky as their humps rocked back and forth, I sensed the oncoming deluge of peoplehood. Cars unseen but noisily fanging down the immaculate asphalt.
Note: rant mode about to engage.
I wasn’t so inspired by the initial foray into Kata Tjuta, a km each way walk to a spectacular gap in the rocks, which had the punters emerge from their air conditioned hire car and immediately light a cigarette, a need for toxic fumes in this remarkably pure atmosphere.
There may be few more inappropriate places to read some fantasy novel while your partner completes the easy 40 minute round trip. Call me an old puritan, many do, but I’m perplexed. I’d forgotten about people’s strange needs, I mean, that’s a couple of extraordinarily beautifully feathered, red beaked and delicate Zebra finches building a nest not 20 feet from where you are sitting lady. It’s not hard to engage with the world out here.
Rant over. Mutter, mutter.
The fantastic part of the stroll was the immense flocks of said Zebra finches zooming by at minimal altitude for a drink at the waterhole in the rock, 100s perched in nearby shrubs before darting down enmasse for a mere couple of seconds to slake their thirst and then off again, tiny little packets of energy. But hard to observe if you can’t have a few moments quiet and lack of movement.
The Valley of the Winds, close by, knocked off 90% of the visitors, the walk is a touch over 7km for the full circuit and despite having travelled 1000s of km to lob in here, beyond your average tourist.
Being historically prone to making grand statements, others stand back with astonishment at my stupidity, I’ll give this an airing: The Valley of the Winds wander is one of the most inspiring in this neck of the woods, which makes it one of the outstanding short walks in the country.
Maybe we have all become jaded by modern life but this is awe inspiring in the true sense of the word.
You slip in behind the more prominent humps in the conglomerate into some smaller gorgeous gorges, mostly lacking water except the bucket sized pools frequented by those congregating finches, with massive shear walls. Then burst through the gap in the cliffs into a landscape with more humps than your average camel extended family. Quiet and you can have it entirely to yourself if you feel the need. Kata Tjuta has one of the most intense scenic experiences you could wish for.
Except there’s Uluru popping up on the horizon just over there, mauve, or violet in the late afternoon thunderstorms.