off road, WTF

When you ride the 3900km from Perth to Sydney, or 4400km Darwin to Perth, along the highway, you tend to spend all day in the saddle, day after day. Making distance, consistent velocity in your clip-ons. No time, or inclination, for much else other than turning those pedals.

That’s Destination Travel. You just happen to travel through territory on your way to somewhere else. The objective is to be somewhere other than where you are.

Maybe proving something to someone. I hope they care.

There’s a great alternative type of travel. That other path is where the journey becomes the destination. Not 5 weeks but 5 months on, or off, the main roads.

Or 12 months.

For those who want a little adventure there’s plenty of unsealed roads to explore.

At 15km/hour you see the nuances, the changes, the rocks, the cloud formations, or their absence.

What happens when you strike off the main roads?

For a start it takes a change in mentality. Stop and get off the bike occasionally. Climb that hillock for a view. Chat to the curious locals. Explore that abandoned car or old railway ruin. Check out the raucous birds at a waterhole.

The landscape seems much closer. The scorched earth policy along many highways nukes everything within 50m of the asphalt. The shrubbery eventually grows back but the highway landscape is as natural as Tuscany.

On unsealed roads the graders might come through once a year after the rains. The roadside is often less devastated by machinery.

That means more opportunity to see wildlife.

There’s less traffic, much less traffic. Hooray!

And with no white line to channel a passing vehicle they tend to give you a wider berth.

But the corrugations, the dust, the heat?

Corrugations are for the 4WDers and their off-road caravans. On your bike you only need 6 inches of hard surface and it’s rare that those little waves are fully across the road. One side or the other is generally clear. With not much traffic you can spend 70% of the time on the right, (wrong), side of the road. Or up the bank.

The occasional dust cloud, a small price. Usually there’s a breeze which dissipates the haze and swapping sides of the road avoids the fog.

The heat? Pioneers lived out here without air conditioning. Wear a hat and long sleeves. Up near 40ºC? Sit under a tree to avoid the worst of it. And lay down for a while for a siesta.

Get used to it.

Bored out there?

Nah. Never.

Never came close. Not even in the most desolate country.

Specially not in the not-much-around landscapes.

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Wwwwhyyyahhh????

bike touring, Oodnadatta Track, South Australia

There’s an additional question round here that is often phrased as a statement: “Come across the Nullabor?”

“Nuh. Came over the top,” I state casually, as if that was the easier option. Melbourne to Esperance is about 2700km via the most direct route: I don’t mention I’ve come 14,000km.



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early biking history

Arthur Richardson first guy around Australia

Maybe it wasn’t just the long-distance cycling that drove him mad.

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many picture man

Mackay arrived at the Brisbane GPO on 25 March 1900 and set a new around Australia record of 240 days 7 hours and 30 minutes by 3 days.

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slow travel

bicycle touring, solo

There’s another option: Slow Travel.

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about your guide

solo bike touring, GJ Coop

Yup, I’m the guy who shuffled this all together. A bloke who realised that he had to do it rather than just dream about it.

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learning from the road

 camping on the Gibb River Road, WA

Instead of the same old, the familiar, I launched along a less well-travelled path.

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freedom

Limestone Gorge campsite, Gregory/Judbarra National Park, NT

For a while, you can forget responsibilities and obligations. Expectations don’t mean much out there. Frustrations: not much sympathy.

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perfection, more or less

long distance bike touring

So here’s my gratuitous advice about financing a long tour: be less fussy, be more adventurous.

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